Save My grandmother's kitchen in Lithuania always smelled like earth and smoke, especially on the nights she made cepelinai. She'd stand at the counter with her sleeves rolled up, grating potatoes so fast her hands blurred, and I'd watch the starchy water collect in the bowl below. The first time I tried making them myself, I underestimated how much liquid those potatoes release—my dumplings fell apart in the pot and I had to start over. But that failure taught me the real secret: patience with the squeezing and respect for the starch. Now, every time I make cepelinai, I'm transported back to that warm kitchen, the sound of the grater, and the quiet satisfaction of getting it right.
I made cepelinai for my partner during our first winter together, nervous about whether he'd understand the dish or think it was too unusual. He took one bite and his whole face softened—then he reached for another without saying a word. That quiet moment of approval meant more than any compliment, and now cepelinai is the dish he requests when the weather turns cold and he needs something grounding and real.
Ingredients
- Starchy potatoes (1.5 kg): Russets or Yukon Golds work best because they break down into a smooth, cohesive dough when grated and mashed. The starch is what binds everything together, so don't skip the good potatoes.
- Boiled and mashed potatoes (2 medium): These add richness and help stabilize the dough, preventing it from becoming too wet and sticky.
- Ground pork (250 g) and ground beef (150 g): The combination gives the filling depth and prevents it from tasting one-note; pork alone can be too mild, beef alone too heavy.
- Potato starch (1 tbsp): This is your safety net when moisture wins the battle—it absorbs excess liquid without changing the delicate flavor of the potato dough.
- Bacon or smoked pork belly: The smoke and salt in the sauce anchor the whole dish; don't use mild bacon here, seek out something with character.
- Sour cream (300 ml): Full-fat sour cream is essential—it creates a luxurious sauce that clings to the dumplings and balances the richness of the meat.
- Fresh dill: A whisper of dill at the end lifts the dish with brightness and a hint of Baltic herbaceousness.
Instructions
- Prepare the Potato Base:
- Grate your raw potatoes on the fine side of the grater, watching them turn into a pale, wet mess in minutes. The moment they hit the bowl, wrap them tightly in cheesecloth or a clean kitchen towel and squeeze hard—and then squeeze again, because you never think you've squeezed enough until you have.
- Capture the Starch:
- Let the squeezed-out liquid sit for a few minutes, then carefully pour off the top layer of water, leaving the settled white starch at the bottom. This reserved starch is your secret weapon for the dough.
- Build the Dough:
- Combine the squeezed raw potatoes, the mashed boiled ones, salt, and that precious starch in a large bowl. Mix gently with your hands until everything comes together into a soft, cohesive dough that holds together but doesn't feel gluey.
- Make the Filling:
- Mix the ground pork and beef with finely chopped onion, minced garlic, salt, and pepper until evenly combined. The onion and garlic should be fine enough that they disappear into the meat, not visible chunks.
- Shape the Dumplings:
- Wet your hands with cool water to prevent sticking, then scoop out a portion of dough about the size of a large egg. Flatten it into a thin patty, place a heaping tablespoon of meat in the center, and fold the edges up and around, sealing completely so no filling peeks through. The oval shape—longer than it is wide—is traditional and helps them cook evenly.
- Cook with Gentle Heat:
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil, because aggressive heat will break them apart. Slide the dumplings in carefully in batches, and they'll eventually float to the surface; let them cook for 5–10 minutes after floating, until they feel firm when you touch one gently with a spoon.
- Make the Sauce:
- Fry diced bacon in a skillet until the edges are crisp and the fat is golden, then add finely chopped onion and let it soften into the bacon fat until it's sweet and tender. Pour in the sour cream slowly, stirring gently, and warm it through without letting it bubble—boiling will make it separate and look broken.
Save There's a moment right after the first batch of cepelinai floats to the surface when the kitchen fills with steam and potato perfume, and everything feels like it might go right. I've learned to pause there, to breathe it in, because that smell is the promise of a dish done well—earthy and wholesome and alive.
The History Behind These Dumplings
Cepelinai emerged from Lithuanian countryside kitchens where potatoes were abundant and meat was precious, so combining them became an art form. The name supposedly comes from their airship-like shape—zeppelin in Lithuanian—though I think they're more like little pillows of comfort. Every family guards their own method jealously, tweaking ratios and filling techniques, but the core philosophy remains: take simple ingredients and turn them into something that tastes like home.
Why Potato Starch Makes All the Difference
The first time I skipped the potato starch because I was confident I'd squeezed the potatoes thoroughly enough, half my batch turned mushy. That taught me that even with perfect squeezing, a little starch insurance transforms the dough from fragile to resilient. It sounds like a small thing, but it's the difference between a dumpling that holds together proudly and one that falls apart in shame.
Serving and Pairing Suggestions
Cepelinai demands to be served hot and generously sauced, preferably on a warm plate so the sauce doesn't cool down mid-bite. Pair it with a simple green salad dressed in vinegar to cut through the richness, or serve it alongside roasted vegetables for a more substantial meal. A cold beer or crisp white wine would be the traditional Lithuanian choice, but honestly, a cup of strong tea feels just as right.
- Always have extra sauce on the side because everyone wants more of those bacon-cream drippings.
- If you've made extra dumplings, freeze them raw on a tray before storing in a bag—they cook straight from frozen without any fussing.
- Leftovers can be pan-fried the next day until crispy on the outside, which transforms them into something almost better than the original.
Save Making cepelinai is an act of patience and presence—there's no rushing the squeezing, no shortcutting the gentle simmer. But when you pull them from the water and plate them under that silky bacon sauce, you've created something that nourishes both body and memory.
Saffron Brook Recipe Q&As
- → How do I prepare the potato dough for Cepelinai?
Grate raw starchy potatoes finely, squeeze out excess liquid, then combine with boiled mashed potatoes and a little salt. The reserved potato starch settles at the bottom of the liquid and can be added for better binding to form a cohesive dough.
- → What meats are used in the filling?
The filling traditionally blends ground pork and beef, seasoned with onion, garlic, salt, and black pepper for a balanced and savory taste.
- → How should the dumplings be cooked?
Cook Cepelinai by gently simmering in salted water for 25–30 minutes until they float and feel firm to the touch, avoiding rolling boils to keep their shape intact.
- → What ingredients are used in the sauce?
The sauce combines crisp fried bacon or smoked pork belly, sautéed onions, and sour cream, often finished with fresh dill for added aroma and flavor.
- → Can this dish be adapted for vegetarian diets?
Yes, the meat filling can be substituted with sautéed mushrooms and onions, offering a flavorful vegetarian alternative.
- → Is potato starch necessary in the dough?
Potato starch helps bind the dough properly, but if unavailable, thorough squeezing of the grated potatoes to remove excess liquid can suffice.